Frequently asked questions

Crescent Seoul provides basic questions and answers about cosmetics development.

Working with Us
Who is Crescent Seoul?
We're a K-beauty manufacturing agency based in Seoul that helps global indie founders develop and launch products with Korea's top-tier manufacturers. We've launched 30+ brands across skincare, sun care, lip care, and personal care — handling everything from formulation and packaging to regulatory and export.
What kind of manufacturers do you work with?
We work exclusively with the top 3% of Korean cosmetic manufacturers — the same factories producing for LVMH, L'Oréal, Estée Lauder, and leading global K-beauty brands such as Round Lab, ANUA, and MEDICUBE. Every facility we work with is cGMP and FDA certified. Out of 10,000+ Korean manufacturers we've evaluated, only a small fraction qualify as our partner.
How many brands have you launched?
Over 30 brands across global markets. Product types range from sheet masks and acne patches to serums, sunscreens, lip balms, toner pads, and gel creams. One recent case is Zenttu, built with beauty creator Rocci — first reorder came in the first week of launch.
Why work with an agency instead of going directly to Korean factories?
You can absolutely contact Korean factories directly. But top-tier factories in Korea expect Korean-language communication, full regulatory paperwork, on-site quality control, and clear specification documents. Handling all of that from overseas typically takes months of trial and error per project. We do that part — so you can focus on building your brand.
Where are you based, and where are your manufacturing partners?
Crescent Seoul is headquartered in Gangnam, Seoul, Korea. All manufacturing partners are based in Korea — primarily around Incheon, Gyeonggi, and Chungcheong regions, where Korea's leading cosmetic factories are concentrated.
Can I visit Korea to see the factories?
Yes. We offer a K-Beauty Insight Trip where you visit the labs and factories producing your product, meet the chemists in person, and see the production lines. Beyond product development, it generates content — being in a Korean lab, meeting the people making your brand, is itself a story worth telling. Details available on request.
Do you charge a development fee?
Yes. We charge a Project Start Payment at the beginning of development. The amount varies by scope and number of SKUs.
What does the development fee cover?
It covers everything we do for you from product development through production: sourcing and matching with the right manufacturer, custom K-Beauty Insight Report, full bilingual project management, formulation and sampling rounds, packaging sourcing from our 700+ supplier network, regulatory review of your claims, on-site PPS and CT audits, and preparation of all export documentation (MSDS, COA, Certificate of Origin).

That said, since the brand ultimately bears responsibility for product sales in their local market, we strongly recommend cross-checking local regulations through a local regulatory agency in your target country.
How does payment work for the bulk production order?
The bulk production PO is paid 50% upfront as a deposit when the order is confirmed, with the remaining 50% paid before shipment. This is the standard structure across all our projects.
How does the process work, from inquiry to ship-ready product?
1. Inquiry: You submit your inquiry form.
2. First call: We discuss your product concept, MOQ, budget, and timeline. If it's a fit, we move forward.
3. Project Brief: We review your project brief with manufacturers.
4. Second call: Led by our CEO Jenny, focused on technical and operational depth.
5. Proposal & Project Start Payment: We send the proposal, and you confirm by paying the development fee.
6. Development: Sampling rounds, packaging sourcing, regulatory review, CT and PPS testing.
7. Bulk PO: 50% deposit → mass production → 50% before shipment → export.
What's the difference between the first call and the second call?
The first call is a 15–20 minute introduction. We focus on understanding what you're building, sharing how we work, and confirming whether MOQ and budget align. The second call is led by our CEO Jenny and goes deeper into technical and operational specifics — formulation direction, regulatory pathway, packaging strategy, and proposal review. Not every project requires both — sometimes we move straight to proposal after the first call.
What should I prepare before our first call?
Nothing formal. Come with a sense of what you want to build, any benchmark products you like (texture, finish, ingredient direction), your target market, and a realistic budget range. If you have a brand deck or product brief already, share it before the call — it lets us prepare better.
Formulation & Development
How long does it take from brief to ship-ready product?
The average is around 6 months from brief to finished product. This can move shorter or longer depending on formulation complexity, how quickly we can turn around feedback together, factory scheduling at the time, and whether the product requires additional regulatory work (e.g., US OTC adds 1–2 months for clinical testing).
Can I use my existing formula from a UK or US lab?
In most cases, no — your existing formula cannot be transferred directly to Korean manufacturing. Korean manufacturers source raw materials from a domestic supplier network, follow different regulatory and labeling standards, and use different equipment. We treat existing formulas as a strong reference for the new Korean version, but development still happens here.
Do you do clinical testing?
Yes. Clinical testing isn't legally required for most cosmetics, but it's one of the strongest marketing strategies in K-beauty. Korean brands consistently use clinical efficacy data to back their claims, and it has become a global trust signal. Clinical testing in Korea is also significantly more affordable than in most other countries, which makes it accessible even for early-stage brands. We coordinate the full process with certified Korean testing institutes.
Do you help shape product strategy?
Yes, we help shape strategy from the start. Beyond manufacturing coordination, we cover K-beauty market intelligence (trending ingredients, top-performing formulations in your category), formulation direction, packaging recommendations, and claim/positioning strategy based on what's actually working in your target market. Many clients come to us with a brand idea, and the actual product strategy gets built with us.
Packaging & Design
What is the MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)?
The MOQ is 5,000 units per SKU for most product categories. This is the threshold most of our partner factories will accept. For products requiring US FDA OTC compliance (e.g., sunscreen for the US market), MOQ is 10,000 units. Australia SPF stays at 5,000.

Packaging MOQ usually determines the overall MOQ, so the number can shift significantly depending on packaging format. For example, eye patches produced in a jar format have an MOQ of 5,000 units, but the same product in individual pouches rises to around 40,000 units.
Why is the MOQ 5,000 units?
Korean manufacturers produce cosmetics on industrial mixing tanks, filling lines, and capping machines — equipment that requires a minimum volume to run efficiently. From the factory's perspective, runs below 5,000 units are operationally inefficient. And since our partner factories are already producing for top global and Korean brands at full capacity, they typically decline projects under that threshold. 5,000 units per SKU is the practical floor where most top manufacturers will accept the project.
How much does it cost per finished unit?
It depends on product type, formulation complexity, packaging, and volume. As a rough reference, standard skincare at 5,000 units typically runs $3–5 USD per finished unit. Acne patches start around $3–4 with a 20–30% increase based on active ingredient concentration. Pump or airtight packaging adds roughly $2–3 per unit.

For an accurate quote based on your specific brief, get in touch with us →
Do you handle design and branding?
No. Design and branding are handled by your team or your local agency — they understand your audience better than we can from Korea. We take your finished design and execute the full packaging side: supplier matching, dielines, color coordination, and on-site audits before production.
Do you handle packaging sourcing?
Yes. We have a network of 700+ packaging suppliers in Korea covering glass, PCR plastic, tube formats, airtight pumps, droppers, secondary packaging, and eco-friendly options. We manage everything from supplier matching to dielines, Pantone color matching, and physical audits at the factory before production.
Regulations & Compliance
Do I own the formula?
In the Korean manufacturing ecosystem, the manufacturer holds the IP for the formula they developed — that's the standard practice here. However, the manufacturer cannot produce the same formula for any other brand. It remains exclusive to your brand.
Do you handle SPF / sunscreen products?
Yes. The process depends on your target market. In the US, sunscreen is classified as an FDA OTC drug, which requires specific formulation standards, labeling, and a clinical SPF test — we handle the entire process. In markets like Australia (TGA) or the EU (CPNP), the regulatory path is different but generally less complex. If SPF is your first SKU, we sometimes recommend launching a serum or moisturizer first to validate your audience before adding the regulatory complexity.
Do you handle US FDA OTC products?
Yes. We handle the Korea side fully — formulation, clinical testing, and export documentation. For final US-side compliance (e.g., MoCRA registration), we recommend working with a US regulatory consultant in parallel.
Can you do vegan, clean beauty, or other certifications?
Yes. If vegan or clean beauty positioning is part of your brand, we factor it in from the formulation brief stage. Our partner labs have experience with vegan-certified formulations, and we can help you obtain certifications such as Leaping Bunny or The Vegan Society. We also check your formula against your target retailer's restricted ingredient list (e.g., Sephora Clean, Credo Beauty).
Do you handle international shipping and customs?
We handle the Korea side — including export-ready packaging, MSDS, COA, and Certificate of Origin. International freight, customs, and last-mile delivery are handled by your side. We don't run forwarding or customs ourselves, but we can help you compare quotes from different forwarders or 3PLs if you don't have one set up yet.

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